The grass is always greener on the other side, a notion that resonates deeply with the Indian migrants nestled within the warehouses of Avan district in Yerevan. It is this very idiom that drew them to Armenia. Even the ridiculously high cost of living and precarious working conditions in this country fail to tarnish their hopeful outlook. Their aspirations extend beyond Armenia; many dream of making their way to Cyprus, others-  dream of ultimately reaching Italy. However, Canada stands out in their imaginations as the pinnacle of opportunity. The Indian  migrants  in Armenia remain undeterred by the stories of those who have ascended to Canada’s heights only to find themselves grappling with depression -they refuse to believe these stories until they encounter them themselves.

Touristic agencies are on the rise  in India. Nearly every immigrant we spoke with had a “brother” working as a tourist agent, earning commissions for persuading hopefuls to relocate to Armenia. These agencies offer a variety of packages, each with a price tag that reflects its allure: forging a marriage with a Canadian citizen costs a staggering $16,000, while securing an Italian entry visa runs $11,000. In contrast, the package for Armenia is a relative bargain at $2,000, including airfare. Yet, the transaction often ends in disappointment, as many find that payment does not guarantee the coveted visa.

Touristic agencies have told them that in order to reach Europe one needs to have worked in at least three foreign countries. Thus, arriving in Armenia becomes a strategic move, an opportunity to accumulate visas in their passports, each stamp a step closer to their European dreams.

We asked them why they chose Armenia, we heard different responses:

• There are no job opportunities for Indians in India. 
• In Pinjar, it’s 45 degrees Celsius for half the year—working there is impossible.
• My father lent my brother money, and he made it to Italy; he didn’t support me, so I came to Armenia.
• My brother is in Cyprus; he emigrated as a student and is now trying to bring me over.
• To obtain a Schengen visa, you need a solid profile, a good credit history, and strong job recommendations. I’m here to build that profile.
• I’ve worked in Malaysia, Singapore, and now Armenia.  With this experience, I can apply for a Schengen visa and finally have a chance at success.

 

Sikhs typically wear steel bracelets. “It’s like your crosses,” explains our interviewee.

The boys are gathered on the staircase of the warehouse, the day’s work drawing to a close. Everyone awaits dinner, which is being prepared by the caretaker. Some of the boys wash bottles at a natural juice factory, while others work in a furniture factory, applying color to various pieces. A third group is involved in construction, installing glass windows in high-rise residential buildings.

Everyone works six days a week, eight hours a day, earning a salary of about 150,000 Armenian drams (roughly $350). They are responsible for their own meals and prefer not to discuss working conditions. Instead, they pull out their smartphones and show us Instagram photos of themselves posing with fancy cars and motorcycles, lounging on luxurious beaches, and wearing trendy outfits. They are eager to talk about the good life. 

Indians speak different languages and dialects and belong to different religions.

— In India my family had a business venture  selling used cars. 

— I used to work in the marketing industry. It was easy, computer work.

In the boys’ rented lodgings, we met only one woman. She stood near the shared stove, cooking chapati for herself and her fiancé. She works at a bakery, and the couple is saving up to throw a wedding party in India. 

The other entrance to the building is also inhabited by Indians. Indian students from the Medical University of Yerevan live here. In this part of the building, the living conditions are incomparably better; each student has a private room. The contact between the two Indian communities is minimal, hinting at some internal tensions.

The Armenian government is preparing to forge a pact with India’s Skill India organization to protect labor migrants from exploitation and maltreatment. This agreement aims to ensure that Indian migrants work in Armenia legally. As long as many Indians work in the black, their working conditions are precarious and unprotected. While the government touts this international deal as a pathway to securing labor rights, the additional requirements for entry may inadvertently restrict the flow of migration to Armenia.

The note on the wall is a quote from Iranian poet Masoumeh Saber, that reads, “These two days took a thousand years from me.”

 

 

Knar Khudoyan, Anastasia Karkotska